Fake Collagen in Cosmetics: How Consumers Are Being Misled
- Iryna Verbas
- Nov 6, 2024
- 3 min read
The cosmetics industry has long used collagen as a key ingredient in skincare products. This protein, responsible for skin’s firmness and elasticity, is popular among consumers looking to maintain a youthful appearance. However, a recent wave of lawsuits in the U.S., filed in August 2024, calls into question the honesty of several cosmetic brands. The main allegation is that brands are using fake collagen substitutes instead of real animal protein, misleading consumers and raising concerns about transparency in the beauty industry.
The Core Issue: Plant-Based Substitute vs. Real Collagen
Four cosmetic brands—Osea, Azure, By Nature, and Pixi—are at the center of the lawsuits. They are accused of using a plant-based extract derived from the Acacia Senegal tree (Acacia Senegal Gum Extract) as a replacement for real collagen. While this substance mimics some of collagen’s properties, it is not a true equivalent since collagen cannot be derived from plants.
Collagen is a structural protein found in the connective tissues of animals, such as skin, bones, and cartilage. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the structure of the skin and joints. Despite growing interest in vegan alternatives, plant-based substitutes for collagen do not contain the actual protein in its traditional form. Labeling such products as collagen-based without clear explanation is a violation of consumers’ rights to accurate information.
Industry Precedents and Consequences
The lawsuits filed in the U.S. are not isolated incidents. Earlier in 2024, Dr. Dennis Gross settled a similar case for $9.2 million over claims that its C + Collagen line contained no actual collagen. These cases reflect rising concerns among consumers and regulators about the honesty of marketing claims in the beauty sector.
The non-profit organization Truth in Advertising, which monitors advertising practices, is actively supporting these lawsuits, stating that promoting products with plant-based collagen substitutes as containing real collagen is deceptive. According to the organization, the cost difference between real collagen and plant-based alternatives is significant, driving companies to opt for cheaper plant-derived ingredients.
Consumer Interest and Challenges for Brands
The demand for collagen-based skincare products continues to grow. Research shows that the market for collagen products was worth over $6.5 billion in 2023, with further growth projected. However, as demand rises, consumers are becoming more informed and discerning about product ingredients. For brands to maintain customer loyalty, transparency and honesty are essential.
Vegan alternatives to collagen, such as plant extracts or products that stimulate collagen production in the skin, are also popular. However, brands must clearly distinguish these from genuine animal-derived collagen. One promising area for future development is the creation of bioidentical collagen synthesized without the use of animal sources, but this requires time and significant investment.
What Does Research Say?
Scientific studies confirm that animal-derived collagen, particularly from fish and cattle, can be effectively absorbed by the body and has beneficial effects on the skin and joints. In contrast, plant-based extracts like Acacia Senegal Gum Extract do not have the same properties. While they may hydrate the skin and temporarily improve its appearance, they cannot replace collagen’s structural function, as they lack the specific amino acids that collagen contains.
Moreover, research indicates that consumers value transparency about product ingredients. In a 2022 survey of U.S. cosmetic buyers, 68% of respondents stated that ingredient transparency plays a key role in their purchasing decisions. This underscores the importance of clear labeling and providing consumers with complete information about products.
Conclusion: Transparency Is Key to Trust
These lawsuits highlight a critical issue of transparency in the cosmetics industry. The use of plant-based collagen substitutes can be acceptable, but brands must be honest that their products do not contain real collagen. Consumers have the right to know exactly what they are paying for, especially in the premium cosmetics market. Cosmetic brands need to understand that customer trust is a fundamental asset that they risk losing if they resort to marketing manipulation.
In the future, we can expect stricter regulations regarding cosmetic ingredients and clearer labeling of collagen sources, which will help create a more fair and transparent market.
P.S. This same issue applies to exosomes. Most products on the cosmetic market claiming to contain exosomes actually contain plant-derived ones, which are far less effective for our skin than exosomes of animal origin. Let’s be honest—we’re not flowers!
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